wtorek, 13 listopada 2012

Przez 150 lat z Harper's Bazaar i prasą modową

Pierwszy numer Harper's Bazaar ukazał się prawie 150 lat temu. 
Jego okładkę zdobił subtelny rysunek elegancko ubranych arystokratek. Bohaterką najnowszego wydania kultowego magazynu jest Nicole Kidman w złotej sukni. 

Magazyny modowe przeszły daleką drogę od czarno-białych żurnali do błyszczących, kolorowych pism, w których celebruje się celebrytki.
Poniżej krótki przegląd różnic między tym, co było i co jest.










Harper's Bazaar has been with us from nearly 150 years. 
The cover with fragile sketch of well-dressed women is totally different from the latest cover with Nicole Kidman in golden dress. 

•In the late 1600’s and 1700’s, French women and dressmakers outside the court relied on sketches to see what was going on. The sketches were compiled in books that were reproduced and sold such as the Mercure Galant.
•1780’s the late French court has a number of journals circulating, some for the masses such Cabinet des Modes
•In 1856 Flaubert writes that Madame Bovary has a regular fascination for fashion magazines. These appear to have been illustration journals of custom clothing.
•1867, Harper’s Bazaar begins in the US providing illustrations of European designs such as Charles Frederick Worth.
•1892, Arthur Baldwin Turnure founds Vogue in the US to provide both illustrations and patterns
•1900, fashion magazines begin to feature photography
•1909, Condé Nast purchases Vogue
•1912-1925, La Gazette du Bon Ton is the leading French fashion magazine for 100 a francs a year by subscription only. It has exclusive illustrations (Cheruit, Doeuillet, Doucet, Paquin, Poiret, Redfern, and Worth). The magazine also aimed to establish fashion as an art alongside painting, sculpture, and drawing: according to the magazine's first editorial, "The clothing of a woman is a pleasure for the eye that cannot be judged inferior to the other arts.”
•1916, Nast creates British and French Vogue
•1920’s, American fashion magazines feature articles about women’s suffrage and socialites
•1922, 30th anniversary of Vogue, French designer Paul Poiret writes that Vogue "is today one of the best methods of communication with a distinguished clientele."
•1930’s, GQ and Esquire begin covering men's fashion
•1940’s, American fashion magazines feature articles about working women fashion
•1959, Condé Nast is sold to S. I. Newhouse who builds the magazine empire around fashion & lifestyle
•1960’s, enhancements in color printing reduce cost and improve both quantity and quality
•1970’s, couture houses increase licensing and brand diversification, increasing the overall advertising load to include accessories and perfumes
•1980’s, television programs emerge and compete with magazines
•1991, Visionaire, the American fashion-art collaborative begins, followed by V Magazine in 1999
•2000, Style.com is launched with other online fashion sites
•2009, Condé Nast closes nearly 10 titles (Jane, Modern Bride, Elegant Bride, Gourmet, Portfolio, Cookie, House and Garden, Domino and others).
Is everything clear? 


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